Anguilles renversées

Anguille renversée. Prenez une grosse anguille et l’estauvez, puis la fendez par le dos au long de l’areste d’un costé et d’autre, en telle manière que vous ostiez d’une part l’areste, queue et teste tout ensemble, puis lavez et ploiez icelle à l’envers, c’est assavoir la char par dehors, et soit liée loing à loing: et la mettez cuire en vin vermeil -LM 180
Reversed eel. Take a large eel and skin it, then split it along the back, down the length of the bone on both sides, in such a way that you remove the bone, tail, and head all together in one piece. Then wash and turn it inside out – that is, the flesh outward – and tie it at intervals and cook in red wine.
Ingredients

Eel; Red Wine; Ginger; Cinnamon; Cloves; Cassia Buds; Grains of Paradise; Nutmeg; Cornstarch; Verjus; Red Wine Vinegar


Vegetarian Option: King Oyster Mushroom will be substituted for Eel

A similar recipe appears in all three of our major sources from the turn of the 15th Century in France – Le Ménagier de Paris, Le Viandier, and Du Fait de Cuisine – LM calls this “Reversed Eels” where LV and DF call it a “Soringue” of eels. They appear to be the same dish largely, but LM’s cooking method is slightly different, and he gives us specific directions for butchering it, splitting it down the middle, and tying it together with the flesh outward before poaching. The other two call for frying onions, then adding the eel to this. All three primarily agree on the sauce or broth – tasting strongly of wine, thickened, spiced, and sharpened with vinegar. DF and LM call for nearly the same list of spices, though LM adds Cassia Buds as well, and LV calls for somewhat fewer but includes Saffron. My redaction uEeses the LM list of ingredients, but for sake of time and budget, we will procure perfectly roasted and readily available eels ready-made from the local Asian market.

References

LM 180, DF 34, LV 79

Modern Redaction
1 eachRoasted Eel, whole
1 c.Vegetable Broth
1/2 c.Red Wine
1/4 c.Verjus
2 T.Red Wine Vinegar
1/2 t.Ginger
1/2 t.Cassia Buds (or 1/4 t. Cinnamon)
1/4 t.Grains of Paradise
1/8 t.Cloves
1 1/2 T.Cornstarch
  • Dissolve the Cornstarch in 2 T. of the Broth and set aside.
  • Add all of the remaining ingredients to a pot and bring to a boil
  • Whisk in the Cornstarch slurry and continue whisking at a boil for 1 minute
  • Add the Eel to the sauce and simmer, heating it to 165°F internally
  • Remove the Eel from the sauce, cut into 8 pieces, then top with the hot sauce.
Process Photos