mirqās

Discussion

This recipe is of such importance that it is the very first recipe presented in ASA. There, the author tells us that they are as easy to digest as banadiq (meatballs,) another Andalusian favorite, and that they offer “good nourishment.” FKH tells us that they are mustahsan (“well recommended”) and provides a specific method for preparing them for wedding feasts alongside that recipe. We also know that by this time the average kitchen contained alat al-mirkas, a device for stuffing sausages (ASA 93.) They are included in ASA 8, Sinhadji (“Fit for Kings”) and popular enough to warrant variations on the recipe including meat and cheese (ASA 9,) meat and eggplant (ASA 334,) and eggplant alone (FKH VII.2.17.) I have categorized these in our snacks for this event, but the other recipes make it clear that they can be used as part of an extravagant main dish or served prepared in any way you like. The sources also include directions to dry or smoke the sausages for storage, though these were prepared fresh and grilled in our case.

The two main recipes provided overlap significantly, and both begin with taking the meat from the loins and thighs of quadrupeds – ASA specifies Mutton, where FKH is not particular on this point. We’re instructed to pound the meat thoroughly with an iron rod and then knead it with seasonings. ASA includes murri naqi, black pepper, coriander seeds, spikenard, and Ceylon cinnamon while FKH also tells us to use all of those as well as salt, ginger, mastic, spikenard, cloves, pounded aniseeds, cumin, garlic, onion, vinegar, mint, and rosewater. ASA later tells us that we can cook them in vinegar or in onion with rose as rahibi. The major departure between these two recipes is the amount of Suet called for. ASA tells us to use Suet in the amount of three-quarters of the weight of meat, while FKH tells us to use one-third. Given these differences, I chose to rely primarily on the FKH recipe which has a broader and more interesting variety of flavors, a ratio of fat more suitable to the modern palate, and isn’t specific about the type of meat. I especially like that the FKH recipe tells us specifically to “Take a piece of the meat and grill it on the fire and taste it. If you like it, well and good; but if you find it deficient in salt or other [spices], add what is lacking,” which is the heart of good cooking.

My primary departures from the recipe as-written were the use of an electric meat grinder and sausage stuffer, and the use of collagen-based casings. My goal is to make historical recipes accessible to home cooks and to large groups, so I routinely use modern equipment without remorse. I did attempt to stuff sausages by hand (shown below) and I would not wish that task on anyone. The use of collagen casings is a matter of seasonality and accessibility – only pork casings are available year-round and we were out of season for natural lamb casings. Using casings that are haram/treif in a feast celebrating primarily Muslim food culture and Jewish influences does not sit well with me. At home, you may do as you like. In the event you do not have access to fresh Lamb casings, I recommend using LEM Clear Fresh Collagen Casings, which were in turn recommended to me by Mariana and have a great eating texture and east of working. Finally, as my expertise does not extend to sausage-making, I relied upon guidance from the chart on this page (which is itself an authorized reproduction of information from “Home Production of Quality Meats and Sausages” by Marianski & Marianski ) and then adjusted the seasonings to taste. In the final recipe I use direct amounts of pureed Garlic, Onion Powder, and dried Mint as they are easier to execute with and the change makes no noticeable difference in the final product.

Special thanks to Mariana for her great advice, and to Lanea and Alherin for their help and expertise in making the sausages for this event.