Les syseros

De leguminibus : recipe cicera et pone ad distemperandum per unam noctem in lexiuio bene salsato. Mane autem, abluas bene cum aqua tepida. Postea, decoque ea in aqua tepida et, in fine decoctionis, pone sal et oleum uel aliam pinguedinem. -LC 21
Of legumes: take chickpeas and place them in well-salted lye for a night to distemper them. In the morning, wash them well with tepid water and at the end of the cooking, put in salt and oil or another kind of fat
Ingredients

Chickpeas, Salt, Garlic, Parsley, Marjoram, Thyme, Onion, Olive Oil, Verjus, Long Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Grains of Paradise, Cloves, Sugar

Chickpeas were considered a paragon of healthful food, and DF gives us one recipe intended for the sick. None of our other primary sources discuss them, but an adjacent source, Liber de Coquina, gives us many options for their preparation. I have taken the most interesting and delicious elements from each of these options to create this specific dish.

Of note, LC gives us instructions to “distemper in well-salted lye.” I do not feel comfortable recommending the use of Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) or Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) to the average cook, however a modern resurgence of pre-soaking chickpeas in a strong base is taking place, and so I do recommend the modern method of using Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate.) The end result is incredibly tender chickpeas which blend to a wonderful, rich smoothness.

References

DF 76, LC 21-27

Modern Redaction
1 lbChickpeas, dried
Water, warm
1 t.Salt
1 T.Baking Soda, Soda Ash or Lye*
8 clovesGarlic, crushed
2 oz.Bouquet Garni
(Parsley, Marjoram, Thyme)
6 c.Water
1 largeOnion, sliced vertically
1 oz Bouquet Garni (Thyme)
2 T.Olive Oil
2 T.Olive Oil
1/4 c.Verjus
1/2 t.Fine Powder
1/2 t.Long Pepper
As neededFine Powder
As neededEgg Shade (or Saffron)
  • Put the dried Chickpeas in a large bowl and cover with water, 2 inches above the peas.
    Add the first measure of Salt and the Baking Soda*, and soak overnight.
  • Drain the chickpeas and rinse well to remove all of the remaining Baking Soda.
  • Add the soaked Chickpeas, Garlic, Bouquet Garni, and second measure of Water to a pot, as well as the Saffron if you are using it.
  • Bring to aboil, reduce to a simmer, and cover. Simmer, covered, for 2 hours or until the Chickpeas are smooth and creamy, pressing easily between your fingers like peanutbutter.
  • About 30 minutes before the Chickpeas are finished cooking, caramelize the Onion well with the first measure of Olive Oil and the second Bouquet Garni of Thyme
    Remove and discard the Bouquet Garni.
  • Remove and reserve half of the chickpeas in a bowl.
  • Combine the other half of the Chickpeas with their broth, the Olive Oil and the Verjus in a blender or food processor and blend until completely smooth. This should result in a thick, creamy broth.
  • Combine this broth, the reserved Chickpeas, and the Fine Powder together and taste.
  • Adjust for Salt, Verjus, and Spices as needed.
  • If you are coloring with Egg Shade, add this now, then strew Fine Powder and Saffron on top if wanted and serve hot.


    *Soda Ash is Sodium Carbonate, which can be purchased or made by baking Baking Soda. This is a much stronger base and is caustic to the skin. Please research safety and use of Soda Ash aka “Baked Baking Soda” before choosing to use this product instead of standard Baking Soda. Please educate yourself likewise on Lye before choosing to use that. Unchanged store-bought Baking Soda dissolved in water represents a much lower risk to skin and eyes than these other two choices.




Process Photos